Review: Longan Lapsang

Name: Longan Lapsang

Cultivar: Xingcun Xiao Zhong

Type: Black tea

Seller: Mei Leaf

Origin: Tong Mu, Fujian, China

Season: 10th May 2019

Dry leaf smell: overpoweringly smokey; campfire

Wet leaf smell: smoke with a briny edge

Liquor color: dark yellow

After I smelled the leaves, I did not expect to like it to be honest. The smoke smell was so intense, and I’m not a fan of briny teas. But I gave it a shot.

The first sip tastes like a campfire.

As I drink more there's a sweetness, like chocolate maybe. The aftertaste is almost (almost) fruit-like, but it would be a baked fruit. Very strong astringency from the beginning. By the end of the first steep, I think the baked fruit note might be apple.

Second infusion dials up the smokiness. I can now taste the slight seaweed, brine note that I smelt in the leaves. After going through the second steeping, I'm not sure if the “briny” note is actually the apple note.

Tea is an interesting experiment in perception. I can make myself perceive this note as “apple” if I try. Or I can taste it as “seaweed.” Both underpinned by a campfire backdrop.

I think the crisp, biting astringency helps me to perceive it as “apple.” The astringency reminds me of the tartness when taking a bite of a green apple. But the flavor itself is like a mellow, baked apple.

I feel conflicted about this tea. I like it far more than I thought I would, based on the smell. And the flavor notes are interesting, but it’s still not a favorite, due to the smokiness. I thought the brine would be the thing that put me off, but by being able to experience what first tasted of “brine” as “apple,” it was more palatable. I don’t dislike the smoke, but it’s likely not a tea I would frequently drink. Still, it’s worth a try!

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by Ciel